October 2004

As a professional chef turned businessman, Swiss-born Albert Uster has spent the last 50 years being part of an industry that he treasures. From his days as Food Director at the Watergate Terrace Restaurant in Washington, DC to the formation of Albert Uster Imports, Inc., Mr. Uster has weathered many changes. But one thing that has never changed is his uncompromising commitment to quality service and products. He’s partnered with many of the finest companies and brought together some of the best people in the business. Together they continue to raise the bar, transforming Albert Uster Imports into a powerhouse resource for professionals around the world. 

Arriving in the United States on October 13, 1954, Mr. Uster is proud to celebrate his 50^th year in the country, first as a guest, then as a citizen. He’s taken this milestone moment to reminisce about his life and career, and reflect on the opportunities he embraced and obstacles he overcame.

What made you decide to come to the United States?

I wanted to become a better craftsman. My grandfather used to say, “A prophet is not recognized in his native country. So go west, young man. Go west.” It was 1954, I was working at the Hospes International Culinary Show in Bern. There was a competition, and I was assigned to help the foreign teams. It was the first time an American team was competing in an international culinary competition. When I was offered a position as cook in New York, I took it. I only planned to stay for one year, I had even put into motion the move I’d take afterwards, which was a job at a coffee plantation club in Santos [Brazil]. 

What were your first impressions?
I arrived by steamer boat, “The Liberty,” and at the time the crossing took seven days. I arrived in New York with only $15 in my pocket. But I remember the great coffee and pound cake that was for sale at the harbor.

Where did you work?

My first job was at The Esplanade, a French restaurant, in New York City. My wife worked as a busboy even though she had a degree in design. I worked in the cold kitchen, preparing meats, salads, appetizers and such. There was no pastry kitchen, so I also had to make the desserts. While in New York I learned the Petroleum Club in Houston was looking for a chef. I spent 10 years in Texas. During that time the US Army called me and I was given two choices, either join or leave the country. So I joined. Those two years were an interesting experience, and also gave me time to improve my English. Following the army I attended the University of Houston, majoring in industrial management. Later I opened three hotels for the Hotel Corporation of America, in Houston, New Orleans and Hartford. Then with the Hilton Corporation I opened hotels in Kansas City, Aurora and Atlanta while still holding the job as Executive Sous Chef at the Shamrock Hilton (of James Dean “Giant” fame). The opening of the Washington Hilton was my last job as an Executive Chef.  

What made you decide to start your own company?

Following the opening of the Washington Hilton, I formed a company with Harold Giesinger, Guido Gerosa and Sam Schattner called the Restaurant Corporation of America. For the first six months we operated from a one bedroom apartment. At the Watergate in Washington, DC, we built a 30,000 square foot restaurant. It was magnificent. The prep kitchen was a chef’s dream. We also had a pastry shop. At the time the only chocolate available was baker’s chocolate, I couldn’t even get Hershey’s, much less fondant or marzipan. Eventually I heard about a chocolate that was being used for showpieces and decided to give it a try. For ten years we operated solely under verbal agreements. Only after 1968 did we sign our first formal contract. 

How did you go about getting the company formed?

I was invited to a meeting with the Resort Food Executive Committee. It was chaired by Hermann Ruesch, who at the time was the Executive Chef and Food Director at the famous Greenbrier Hotel. It was he who suggested that I take the business out of the Watergate and call it the Albert Uster Company. I wasn’t sure about this, it’s a huge responsibility to name a company after yourself. It made me even more determined to ensure that every product I sold was the very best.  

What early obstacles did you face?

The only warehouse that we could find in 1979 that was air conditioned was at Grovemont Circle in Gaithersburg, Maryland. Some of my first employees were from the Watergate. We steadily grew, and eventually moved to our present location in August 1985. The building took two years to build, and it was a time when there was a glut of office space in the region. It took us a long time to find tenants. 

What were the first years like?

The first couple of years were exciting, we were more like a family than a team. We drove to every show, whether it was in Chicago, Boston, Dallas or Miami. We had six or seven salespeople. Those were good times. 

When did you know that you “had it made?”

When I knew that we had the best people. In 1996, I realized that I needed help to push the company to the next level. I wanted someone to help plan and guide it into the next century. Philipp [Braun] was the man. He made me realize how much we needed to have done to have a modern company with a clearly defined mission and goals. I convinced him to come for a few months to develop a battle plan for the future. The rest is history.  

What was it like to pass the reins on to Philipp?

It was very difficult, I realized we were at the beginning of something new. I still wanted to be part of everything but it was no longer possible. I was so used to being part of the solution to every problem. It took time and patience both with Philipp and myself. 

What about the company makes you the most proud?

After so many years, our focus remains on quality products and services. Those are our trademarks and it makes us distinctly different from the rest of the field. 

How would you like to see the company approach the future?

We are in the middle of it. In the last year we’ve introduced IcEscape [frozen food] and Savoir Fare [savory food]. The trick is to not grow too fast or too slow. We’ve always been on the sweet side of the business, but savory is a huge part of the industry. I am proud that we are expanding to a point where we can effectively serve both pastry chefs and executive chefs. I have a good feeling about the future. With people like Philipp as the leader of Team I, which includes Franco [Pacini], Mike [Motemaden] and David [Putnam], plus the support of their crews, we can’t go wrong. 

SEA ISLAND, Ga. -- People get nervous when the boss comes over for dinner. Imagine feeding the bosses of the world's top industrialized nations next week at the Group of Eight Summit.

But Todd Rogers, executive chef at The Cloister at Sea Island Resort, Ga., has the event under control. Once you've fed the Queen of England, you understand how to whip up grub for big shots.

SEA ISLAND, Ga. -- People get nervous when the boss comes over for dinner. Imagine feeding the bosses of the world's top industrialized nations next week at the Group of Eight Summit.

But Todd Rogers, executive chef at The Cloister at Sea Island Resort, Ga., has the event under control. Once you've fed the Queen of England, you understand how to whip up grub for big shots.

Rogers said feeding world leaders is no different from feeding the leaders of your world: plan, be prepared, be confident in the menu and delegate when necessary.

Rogers is a tall, well-built man with a thick mustache, gelled hair and a confident demeanor. He's easy to spot. He's the chef wearing cowboy boots. The boots help him stay grounded in his West Virginia roots while working in posh surroundings. He matter-of-factly explained that cooking important dinners makes everyone tense, and for him that's a positive.

"It's good to be nervous. It means you are on the top of your game," he said while talking on the patio at The Cloister Beach Club restaurant.

Planning for the G-8, which gets under way Tuesday, began more than eight months ago. Rogers hand-picked chefs from around the country with whom he has worked to be his team leaders. Before coming to The Cloister, Rogers worked at Ritz-Carltons in Houston and Naples, Fla., as well as The Nemacolin Woodlands Resort and Spa in Farmington, Pa. It was in these settings that he cooked for royalty, governors, presidents and star athletes. Having people he knows and trusts makes the job easier.

When recruiting his team, Rogers told the chefs he expected them to be hands-on. Even he will have sweat on his brow working over stoves. His 10 under-chefs, who will have another 200 cooks working under them, are proven professionals with the ability to handle any situation. They know the recipes and can make adjustments without asking.

"The best answer I can hear in the kitchen [when I ask for something to be done] is, 'Yes, chef.'"

Because they will be serving the dignitaries on locations away from the main kitchens, Rogers will be doing as much prep work in familiar surroundings as possible. At home, this translates into making as many items as possible before guests arrive. Guests come to see you, not to see you cook.

"Relax and have fun with it," Rogers said, adding a favorite saying perfect for this occasion: "Where there is preparation, there is no fear."

For the summit, Rogers broke down into a timeline every aspect of what he'll need to prepare each meal. Instead of thinking of a couple of dozen things that need to be done in a week, he breaks the components into smaller parts that can be accomplished each day.

Security is the top priority in everything G-8. Rogers has worked with security personnel throughout.

"They don't ask, they pretty much invite themselves to the party," he joked.

For example, there can be no open flame or fire around the dignitaries. All cooking will have to be electric -- not the norm in professional kitchens. Rogers worked with Georgia Power Co. to get adequate electrical connections.

Rogers also had to be tight-lipped about his menu. He'd only say that it reflects the foods and cooking styles of the Southeastern Seaboard.

"I can't talk about the ingredients," Rogers said. "If I do, then that ingredient could become a target."

Cooking regional foods plays into Rogers' strengths. When world leaders are at the table, it is not the time to try something new.

"You don't experiment with the president of the United States and heads of state. I'm using tested and proven recipes that have gotten rave reviews," he said, advising home cooks to do the same when preparing food for a special occasion.

However, dietary traditions and customs come into play when feeding people of different cultures. He has researched the dietary demands of his guests and has planned accordingly. The key to making someone a different dish is to make it look like what everyone else is having. Serve it on the same plates, with similar garnishes. Make sure to serve that person with everyone else.

For example, when a vegetarian is in the group and the main menu calls for steak, grill a stuffed portobello mushroom. It can be done on the grill, has similar colors and textures to the steaks and can accept the same garnishes.

"I don't want people to feel different just because they are eating different," he said.

After months of planning and coordinating, Rogers said the G-8 Summit will be the biggest event on his resume. But he's already looking forward to what he calls J-11.

"That's June 11, and that's when this will be all over."  

Academy of Hospitality Services Award for Excellent Service

   For the second year in a row, Albert Uster Imports received the award for excellent service to the Hospitality Industry from the Academy of Hospitality Services.

   This presentation was made at the Adlon Hotel in Berlin where Albert
was invited to attend, together with Ewald Notter, who received the Award as one of the finest Confectioners of the World, also for the second time.

   In Berlin he was in good company to make the Dessert for the Gala, as Alan Ducasse of Paris, Monaco and New York fame made the Appetizer.